The Living Museum
Introduction to Choki Heritage Museum
Location History: The Sacred Village of Chokor
The village of Chokor holds profound spiritual significance in Bhutanese history. According to legend, Lama Drukpa Kunley—known as the “Divine Madman” and one of Bhutan’s most revered saints (1455–1529)—blessed this village during his mission to subdue demons. After conquering a demon at Chimi Lhakhang in Punakha, Lama Drukpa Kunley traveled north of Thimphu, a village opposite Chokor (referred to as Chang-Ta-Gang today) to subdue another demon. Upon subduing this demon, a pile of stone scriptures miraculously appeared from the mountain. Lama Drukpa Kunley then declared he would determine where the pile of rock scripture should be located by shooting an arrow towards Chokor village. The arrow is believed to have landed close to the very spot where the stone scriptures rest today. On the very spot where the arrow landed, a natural medicinal spring emerged, which remains renowned for its healing properties, attracting visitors across Bhutan seeking cures for various ailments.
He then declared that the pile of stone scriptures should move there, and in a miraculous event, they flew to their present location. The village was thereafter named Chokor, meaning “wheel of teaching,” symbolizing the spiritual significance of the stone scriptures. The place where Lama Drukpa Kunley shot the arrow became known as Chang-Da-Na, meaning “place from where the arrow was shot,” though today it is commonly referred to as Chang-Ta-Gang. Lama Drukpa Kunley also prophesied that three stupas should be built near the stone scriptures to protect the community from future demons and negative forces.
In the 17th century, Gyelse Tenzin Rabgay (1638-1696), the 4th Desi of Bhutan, consecrated these stupas, which had been built by the local community in accordance with Lama Drukpa Kunley’s prophecy. Each stupa represents one of the divine protectors: the god of Compassion, the god of Wisdom, and the god of Power and Energy. Remarkably, the stupas was said to have leaned slightly forward, a gesture of reverence to Gyelse Tenzin Rabgay, a detail still visible today.
This old house belonged to a noble family (located next to the three stupas), which was also consecrated along with the stupas and holds special and sacred significance. In 2002, the Choki Traditional Art School was relocated to this sacred site, with the old house becoming an integral part of the school’s campus. Gyelse Tenzin Rabgay’s deep commitment to preserving Bhutanese culture, particularly the “Zorig Chusum” (the thirteen traditional arts), and his instrumental role in promoting these crafts, make the establishment of the school here coincidental and predestined.
The Old House and School
In the 1950s, a devastating smallpox epidemic forced the evacuation of villages like Kabesa, leaving many homes, including a 17th-century noble family’s farmhouse, abandoned. Decades later, in 2002, the Choki Traditional Art School, in search of a new location for the school, relocated to this site. The old house was restored and initially used as a prayer hall and dormitory while the school was being constructed.
Careful attention was given to preserving the original walls and timber, ensuring the historical integrity of the building. For instance, the wooden planks on the first floor are the original ones. The walls, with their impressive thickness of 1.6 meters, have provided the necessary structural integrity and insulation to withstand the test of time. This remarkable attention to detail is why the building still stands strong after nearly 340 years.
Restoring the Old House into a Living Museum
Recognizing the cultural and historical significance of the old house, the school decided to preserve it as a living museum, aligning with its mission to safeguard Bhutan’s heritage. The restoration is vital for several reasons:
- Historical Significance
This is the oldest house in Kabesa valley (Tomoda Masahiko, Tokyo National Research Institute for Cultural Properties). The area was blessed by Lama Drukpa Kunley and the house was consecrated by Gyelse Tenzin Rabgay, making it one of the few remaining buildings in Bhutan with such deep spiritual and historical connections.
- A National Treasure
This house is featured in the collaborative research on the typology and chronology of rammed earth houses in Bhutan, conducted by the Department of Culture and Dzongkha Development, in collaboration with the Tokyo National Research Institute for Cultural Properties. This building offers unique insights into Bhutan’s traditional lifestyle, carpentry, and construction methods from centuries past.
- A Beautiful Coincidence
It is no mere coincidence that an art school now thrives on the very site consecrated by Gyelse Tenzin Rabgay, a patron of Bhutanese culture and the Zorig Chusum. This connection underscores the cultural importance of the school’s role in perpetuating Bhutan’s artistic and religious traditions.
- Educational Resource
The living museum provides students with an immersive learning environment and serves as an important cultural touchstone for visitors. It offers an authentic glimpse into Bhutan’s history, allowing future generations to engage with a way of life that is rapidly disappearing.
By restoring the old house into a living museum, Choki Traditional Art School continues to honor Bhutan’s artistic and cultural legacy, preserving its treasures for future generations to learn from and appreciate.
Visiting the Choki Heritage Museum offers a rare and enriching journey into Bhutan’s cultural soul. Housed in a beautifully preserved 340-year-old traditional Bhutanese home, the museum serves as a living bridge between the past and present. As you walk through its storied floors, you’ll gain deep insight into how Bhutanese families once lived—through their architecture, daily rituals, crafts, and spiritual practices. Each room tells a story of resilience, simplicity, and deep-rooted tradition. For visitors, this is an ideal introduction to Bhutan’s unique heritage, providing context and meaning to the culture you’ll encounter throughout the country. From ancient farming tools to sacred altar rooms and traditional craft demonstrations, the museum offers a hands-on, immersive experience. Whether you’re a curious traveler, student, or culture enthusiast, the Choki Heritage Museum is a valuable educational resource that brings Bhutan’s rich history to life and celebrates its enduring way of life.
What awaits you inside the museum
Entrance
Courtyard
Welcome to the Choki Heritage Museum—the courtyard, a vibrant space that brings the 17th century traditional Bhutanese home to life. Once the hub of daily activity, this open area was used to keep milking cows, essential for every household. Here, the family would pound rice, grind corn, and prepare Zaw, Bhutan’s beloved fried rice. The scent of firewood, neatly stacked under the stairs, added warmth and life to the home. As you stand here, imagine the rhythm of rural Bhutanese life—simple, self-sufficient, and deeply connected to the land and tradition. This courtyard was truly the soul of this heritage home.
A vital utility space
The Ground Floor
As you enter the ground floor of the Choki Heritage Museum, take a moment to observe the remarkable 1.6-meter-thick walls at the entrance—an architectural feature unique to traditional Bhutanese homes of this era. Built around 340 years ago, the house has a wide, solid base that gradually narrows toward the top, reflecting both resilience and practicality in its design. This level once served as a vital utility space, used for sheltering livestock and storing agricultural tools and implements. Today, it offers a glimpse into Bhutan’s rural past, showcasing traditional farming equipment, horse saddlebags, baskets, and other items used before roads reached the country in the 1960s. The highlight of the ground floor is a live demonstration of traditional block printing—a centuries-old art form used to create prayer flags. Watching artisans print these sacred texts by hand offers a fascinating insight into Bhutan’s spiritual and artistic heritage, preserved beautifully in this historic space.
The Storage Space
The First Floor
As you climb to the first floor of the Choki Heritage Museum, pause to admire the ancient mask displayed on your right—an intriguing symbol of Bhutan’s spiritual heritage. Directly ahead, you’ll find portraits of Bhutan’s five revered hereditary monarchs, each honored for their visionary leadership and immense contribution to shaping the peaceful and unique nation Bhutan is today. This floor, once used for storing rice grains and locally grown cereals from the fertile Kabesa Valley, now houses a fascinating collection of Bhutanese stamps, once world-renowned for their creativity and beauty. In the corner room, don’t miss the live demonstration of traditional calligraphy—one of Bhutan’s 13 sacred arts, showcasing elegant, hand-drawn scripts passed down through generations. Also, take a closer look at the old Bhutanese ladder, crafted from a single solid piece of wood—an example of the resourcefulness and craftsmanship embedded in Bhutanese life. This floor bridges the past with living tradition.
The Kitchen & Living Space
The Second Floor
As you climb to the second floor of the Choki Heritage Museum, you step into the heart of the home—the kitchen. This is the warmest and coziest space in the entire old house, where the family once gathered around the stove, sharing meals, stories, and wisdom. Here, grandparents passed down oral traditions, values, and etiquette to the younger generation during simple yet meaningful moments by the fire. Such traditions are fading in modern times, a sentiment gently echoed by the old family photograph hanging on the wall—a quiet call for reflection. The kitchen showcases an array of traditional Bhutanese tools and utensils made from local materials, offering insight into daily life in ancient times. A highlight here is the butter tea-making demonstration, where visitors can watch, participate and taste freshly prepared suja. In the adjacent room, once the family’s main sleeping space, visitors can witness a live demonstration of traditional weaving—a cherished Bhutanese craft. Among the many fascinating artifacts displayed is the personal Kishuthara kira (traditional dress) of Mayum Pem Dechen, wife of Bhutan’s second king, as well as ancient astrological charts, seals, and rare astrology texts. This floor beautifully weaves together domestic life, culture, and timeless Bhutanese traditions.
The Torma & Alter Room
The Third Floor
As you climb to the third floor of the Choki Heritage Museum, take a moment to look upward. The open space between the roof and the walls was once an essential feature of traditional Bhutanese homes. This large, airy attic-like area was used for drying vegetables, grains, and hay—an important preparation for the harsh winter months when markets didn’t exist and families relied entirely on what they preserved. The first room introduces you to the sacred art of torma making—ritual cakes crafted for religious ceremonies. Visitors can explore different types of tormas, their symbolic meanings, and enjoy a live demonstration of how they are made. Deeper inside lies the altar room, a sacred space where the old altar has been preserved for over five generations. It once belonged to the founder of the school and houses important religious artifacts.